![]() ‘We love things like the Wilton’s carvery trolley, but wanted to bring it to a more contemporary and younger audience. ‘The tableside trolley has a sort of charm to it that hasn’t been done recently,’ says Ed Wyand, the restaurant’s director of operations. You watch as your waiter mixes the chopped raw beef with egg, onion and capers in front of you, from a gorgeous custom-designed trolley, one of three they have had made. At Maison François, in London’s St James’s, they have recently introduced a steak tartare trolley. Old trolleys are coming back – Glamorous, in Manchester, recently reintroduced its dim sum trolley – while new ones are being launched. So it is heartening to note a trolley resurgence. But it was not something new restaurants tended to bother with. Think of the pressed duck at fabled London spot Otto’s, the legendary cheese trolley at Le Gavroche, the little caravan of whisky that comes around at Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles, crêpes Suzette. Old-school restaurants still had trolleys. Tea and drinks trolleys, once a familiar part of office life, had gone the way of the fax machine and smoking at your desk, replaced by vending machines in depressing ‘breakout areas’. So it was sad that for years, the trolley looked to have had its day, a quaint relic of a more innocent time. ![]() ![]() Or, at a restaurant, slices of carved meat, or cheese, or dim sum, or a freshly mixed martini, the oils from the lemon twist sparkling in the air. Soon you will receive your in-flight G&T, or your ritual train Twix. Your heart soars: a trolley must be near. The tremble of cutlery or glasses or plates. You hear a gentle rattling, or perhaps the squeak of a wheel in need of aīit of WD-40. It is one of the most cheering sounds on earth.
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